Piedmont
I’ve been on vacation again in beautiful Italy, of course! The journey was much shorter this time, so it took me a moment to settle in and really feel like I was on holiday. Usually, we’d be busy getting the car ready, packing snacks for the road, or booking an overnight stop along the way, but none of that was necessary this time!
Piedmont is huge, of course, but we explored a part of it, specifically the wine regions around Asti, so that's were we started our trip and stayed there until Friday. We were actually supposed to stay until Saturday, but Cris had accidentally picked the wrong check-out date, more on that later. Since we’d attended a wedding the day before, we arrived in Asti feeling a bit hungover. We had to wait a while before we could check in, and I was absolutely starving, so we sat down for lunch at the very first terrace we saw. The bill was a bit of a shock, so we quickly realized it pays to check where you’re walking into beforehand. We usually love just wandering into random places, but I wouldn't recommend doing that in Piedmont! Cris mentioned that it’s one of the most expensive regions in Italy, so keep that in mind if you’re on a tight budget.
The apartment was basic and not exactly spotless, but it was very close to the city center. We had chosen an apartment so we could do some cooking ourselves now and then. I didn't feel entirely comfortable in the apartment, though, so the cooking was left to Cris! Besides, on the first evening, feeling a bit hungover, we didn't feel like cooking at all and went to Osteria del Palio instead. This on the other hand was incredibly cheap and absolutely delicious! We started with a Flan di zucchini, delightful! Then Cris had Agnolotti del plin, a traditional dish from Piedmont. We ate this dish several times, but we concluded at the end of the trip that the version at this restaurant was the best! Truly excellent. I went for the Frittura mista, not exactly a dish you’d typically expect to order there, but I didn't regret it for a second. It was honestly the best version I’ve ever had (and that’s saying something, considering I’ve been to Puglia)! We finished with a typical Piedmontese dessert; it was delicious, though extremely rich. The total bill came to just 36 euros. Everything was perfect, I’d highly recommend it!
We got up early the next day to head to Barbaresco. This is Cris’s favorite wine, so we didn’t want to miss a thing! It’s literally just one small street, so there isn't exactly a lot to miss haha! Still, it’s beautiful and fun to see, with wine tastings everywhere. It was harvest season too, so you could see everyone hard at work; September is a great month to visit. The first wine shop we walked into was, I believe, the main enoteca: Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco. It’s housed in an old church and is stunning inside! Personally, I found it a bit of a pity that the "tasting," you actually just paid by the glass. To me, that doesn't really count as a tasting. Don't get me wrong, the price per glass ranged from 3 to 5 euros, which is practically nothing, but I’d rather pay 5 euros to sample a few different sips, or taste first and then pay a bit more for a full glass. We saw this setup a few more times later on but tended to avoid it. After all, there are plenty of places where you can actually *taste* the wine!
That was certainly the case at the next enoteca, Rocche Dei Barbari. We were both allowed to pick a wine to taste; I was immediately enthusiastic about one of them and wanted to buy it for Cris’s collection (he sometimes buys good wines and lets them age for a few years, usually opening them at Christmas or New Year's). Since we were planning to buy a bottle anyway, we were allowed to taste even more, so things can be pretty easygoing here.
Then it was time for lunch, and in Barbaresco, finding a spot without paying a fortune proved to be a bit of a challenge. I took a quick look at the map to see what was nearby and told Cris, "Jump in the car!" A few months ago and back in the Netherlands Cris would never have trusted me with things like this, but let's see. We drove a bit further out into the countryside and ended up at a charming little farmhouse. It was fantastic! We started with a type of carpaccio. We can't quite recall exactly which cut of beef it was, but it was absolutely delicious! The cheese on top, a Fiandino, similar to Grana Padano, was something I’d never tasted before, either! The Agnolotti del Plin was delicious as well, and then we were served a bistecca. We were absolutely stuffed, but everything was wonderful! Cris remarked that I’m really getting it to choose good restaurants, so I felt a bit proud! So, don't skip Lo Sprin if you're near Barbaresco!
After such a heavy lunch, having dinner back at the apartment was just perfect! In between, we stopped for a drink in Asti at Enoteca Torre di Vino, a small wine bar located in an old tower. It was family-run, so we were served by the mother and daughter; the whole setup was just adorable! They were such lovely people, and it became our regular spot for the days that followed.
The next day, we headed to Bra, the hometown of a friend of Cris. It was a cute little town with plenty of nice shops, but for the rest nothing special. We had Sicilian street food for lunch at Cannolì, and it was absolutely delicious! Sometimes, something simple can be just wonderful.
Since there wasn't all that much going on in Bra, we moved on to Barolo. Barolo hadn't necessarily been on our itinerary, but I am so glad we went! It was a really charming place and significantly larger than Barbaresco. We popped into several wine bars and got to taste a wide variety of wines, it’s amazing how different they can all taste. We headed back to Asti with a bag full of wine, but not before taking a look at the wine museum. It was really fun and I imagine it would be even more entertaining after a few glasses of wine ;).
Back in Asti, we stopped for an aperitif at Bar San Secondo. The antipasti looked amazing, but since we had sushi planned for dinner, we decided to skip it for the moment. We went back the next day to try it, and it was a generous platter filled with all sorts of tasty treats, truly delicious! The sushi that evening at Sakura was a real delight, too. It was an absolutely fantastic day!
The plan for the next day was to get some rest and stay in the apartment, a plan we only partially succeeded. In the morning, we visited the indoor market; it wasn't particularly impressive and was quite expensive, so I wouldn't really recommend it. That was a shame, as I usually love places like that. So, we headed to the butcher shop we had visited earlier in the week, Piemonte Carni; the meat there is truly excellent! The supermarket in the town center (Prestofresco) also stocks delicious food and high-quality products (especially the cheeses). We were all set for lunch and dinner!
After lunch, we visited the Museo Paleontologico; it wasn't huge or extraordinary, but it was a nice change of pace from drinking wine. It was located just outside the center, but the surrounding neighborhood was lovely, so we took a stroll around the area. Afterward, we enjoyed a prosecco by the tower and, of course, the delicious aperitivo at Bar San Secondo. We ended up being out and about more than planned, but it was another wonderful day!
And then, finally, it was Friday! This was the day we were really looking forward to, as we had a tasting scheduled with Pier Paolo Grasso. Since Cris had made a mistake with the checkout date, we had to move to a new place first thing in the morning. Cris had booked a night at the San Stefanetto guesthouse, and it was fantastic! As it turned out, it was also closer to Pier Paolo Grasso. Plus, it was spotlessly clean, featured a swimming pool and Jacuzzi, and offered table tennis in the garden. There was even gym equipment available, though that’s not really our thing ;). All in all, having to switch places wasn't a disaster at all! Unfortunately, we couldn't check in right away, but the host promised to prioritize getting our room ready; in the meantime, he suggested we drive to Montaribaldi, a nearby winery. We got a tour and a tasting there; since it’s a small winery, the cost was very reasonable, and the wines were truly excellent! The Prosecco was a huge hit, and while we don't usually care much for Barbera, the one from Montaribaldi really won us over! It was a great way to fill the time, and by the time we got back, we could check in. That was a relief, as we had a lot of wine in the car that was getting too warm sitting there. It’s definitely something to keep in mind if you’re buying wine in this region!
On the host's recommendation, we went for lunch at Tastè, a slightly more upscale spot, though the prices were still reasonable. However, Cris and I weren't fans; it lacked the charm found in so many other places nearby. The food was fine, but it didn't have that "wow factor" we’d experienced elsewhere. So, our tip if you’re staying in the area is to drive a bit further to Lo Sprin, or another agriturismo, since they're close by!
We quickly put lunch behind us and finally headed to Pier Paolo Grasso’s for a tasting. They had recently moved, so the place was still a work in progress. We’re aiming to go back in two years to see how it turns out, that should be fun! We were given a tour, and everything had been designed by his wife, Sara; they also explained their plans for finishing the space. The ideas were fantastic, and personal touches were visible everywhere. You could really tell this was a labor of passion and that they genuinely care about their wines and quality. Pier Paolo himself was working there too, so we even got to shake his hand. For a wine lover, that feels a bit like meeting a famous celebrity!
Then it was time for the tasting; we sat on a balcony overlooking the wine barrels. It was a lovely spot, and the tasting was led by Sara, his wife, making the experience very personal and engaging. It was a substantial tasting, too, as we were served four full glasses of wine. While it was a bit pricier, falling into the mid-range category, it was absolutely worth it! You can choose from different tasting packages, so it’s accessible even if you’re on a tighter budget, though they offer more exclusive options as well. I was still on the lookout for a dessert wine, though I’m not particularly knowledgeable about them yet. At that moment, they happened to have a dessert wine available, a rather special one, as they only produce it every so often and in very limited quantities. We got to taste this one too (by this point, it was our fifth glass; you can imagine the state we were in when we left). It tasted fantastic, the best I’ve ever had (till there my knowledge: it’s either good or it isn’t ;)), so we definitely bought a bottle to take home! All in all, it was a successful visit and a fantastic afternoon.
Back at the guesthouse, a dip in the cold water sobered us right up! We enjoyed some downtime, and in the evening, we grabbed a pizza at Jolly Jumper. It was a nice little spot, nothing extraordinary, but perfect for a quick bite. And I never thought I’d say this in my life, but I was truly done with wine for the moment, winetired... So, I opted for a beer with my pizza instead!
The next day, our wine adventure came to an end, and we headed towards Omegna. It was a wonderful week, though I don't think this region is quite my cup of tea. I missed the mountains back home and the ability to just walk into a place without having to check if the quality is good and the price is reasonable. That said, if you have a bit more to spend, it really is a great region. It is certainly the best region for wine, so if you’re a wine lover, it’s a place you simply have to visit!
What was your experience of Piedmont like?
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